Where Love, Light, & the Presence of God restore the Spirit, Body & Soul — a sanctuary built in faith on 100 acres of quiet Georgia land.
“Unless The Lord builds the house, the builders labor in vain.”Psalm 127:1
This sanctuary is consecrated to YHWH, the Lord God Almighty, as a dwelling place of peace, restoration, beauty, and holy refuge for the soul — built in faith that He will provide every resource: the finances, creativity, wisdom, knowledge, artisans, and master craftsmen, according to His promise.
May it stand as a testimony to God's provision and presence — a place where weary souls encounter rest, renewal, healing, and communion with Jesus Christ. Every stone laid, every space designed, and every hand involved shall serve His glory alone.
Nestled across 100 acres in Monticello, Georgia, Villa Vita is a sacred wellness retreat created to nourish the body, renew the soul, and fortify the spirit.
Complimentary stays are offered as a gift to believers seeking renewal, peace, and restoration as temples of the Holy Spirit.
Bid 1 to 3 follow the order of the subs listed in the Company column. A sub who has only been referred counts as not contacted until plans go out.
The house has about 12,000–13,500 sq ft of interior wall surface. Veneer plaster on those walls would cost roughly $42,000–$68,000 installed.
Room sizes and ceiling heights were read from plan sheet A3 (JHK25013, 4,219 sq ft heated, one story). Rooms without a labeled ceiling height (baths, halls, kitchen, pantry, laundry, mud room) are assumed to be 10'. This is a budget figure from a review set, not a bid.
Veneer plaster is a modern plaster system. Installers hang blueboard, a gypsum panel with a face that bonds to plaster, then trowel one or two thin coats (about 1/16" to 1/8") over the whole surface instead of taping and sanding seams.
The result is a seamless wall that is much harder and more dent-resistant than drywall. It sets in hours and makes no sanding dust, but it needs a skilled plasterer and costs more than drywall.
| Zone | Rooms (ceiling) | Wall area (sq ft) |
|---|---|---|
| Social & kitchen | Social (barrel vault, 12' spring line, 15' top), Kitchen, Dining (11'), Pantry | ~2,700 |
| Bedroom wing | Bedrooms #2 & #3 (10'), B#2, B#3, closets, hall | ~2,700 |
| Front rooms | Foyer (groin vault), Music & Study (12'), side halls | ~2,750 |
| Master suite | Master Bedroom (11'), M. Bath (barrel vault), toilet room (9'), his/hers WICs, halls | ~3,000 |
| Service & studio | Laundry, Mud Room, powder, diagonal gallery, massage room, Studio (10') | ~2,250 |
| Gross total | ~13,400 | |
| Net after doors and windows (~10%) | ~12,000 |
As a sanity check, wall area usually runs about 3 to 3.2 times floor area at these ceiling heights. On 4,219 sq ft heated, that gives 12,600–13,500 sq ft, consistent with the takeoff.
The total excludes the garage (normally fire-rated drywall) and the prefab sauna. The optional vestibule would add about 300 sq ft.
| Scenario | Rate (installed, $/sq ft) | Area (sq ft) | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low | $3.50 | 12,000 | ~$42,000 |
| Mid | $4.25 | 12,750 | ~$54,000 |
| High | $5.00 | 13,500 | ~$67,500 |
| Premium market or decorative finish | $7–$10 | 12,000–13,500 | $85,000–$135,000 |
The $3.50–$5.00 range comes from a source that puts veneer about 20–50% above standard drywall (JourneymanHQ). Other guides quote $5–$10 per sq ft (Fixr), so local quotes could land higher.
For comparison, standard drywall on the same area at about $2–$3 per sq ft would cost roughly $25,000–$38,000. Veneer adds about $17,000–$30,000 over drywall at the low-to-mid rates.
Plastering the ceilings adds about 4,300 sq ft, including the extra surface in the barrel and groin vaults. Veneer jobs often include ceilings so walls and ceilings match.
At the same rates, ceilings cost roughly $15,000–$22,000. That brings the whole house to about $57,000–$90,000.
For a natural, low-toxicity house, the realistic choices are recycled denim batts and sheep's wool. Denim is easier to buy and costs less. Cellulose (recycled paper) is the cheapest natural-fiber choice for an unfinished attic floor, and hemp is the hardest to source.
As a rough budget, natural insulation for both buildings could run about $15,000–$23,000 with denim walls and cellulose attics, and about $42,000–$72,000 if everything is done in wool. These are planning numbers built on assumed wall and attic areas, not bids. Rite Way Insulation has recommended denim batts and sent an itemized quote on Oct 20.
| Material | What it is | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Recycled denim batts Bonded Logic UltraTouch | Cotton fiber from recycled denim, pressed into batts that fit between studs and joists. Treated with a borate fire retardant; mostly recycled content, no itch or fiberglass dust. The spec sheet lists a Class A fire rating. | Exterior walls and floors; the easiest natural batt to buy | Reaching R-38 in an attic takes two layers. Some sizes were out of stock into 2026, and sources disagree on the R-value of the thicker batt, so confirm the rated R-value for the exact product. |
| Sheep's wool Havelock Wool | Wool batts or loose fill. Naturally fire resistant, handles moisture without losing much performance, and is usually treated against pests. | Walls and attic; the premium natural choice | About two to three times the cost of fiberglass. Specialty product with limited supply and longer lead times. Quoted batt R-value is about R-3.6 per inch, but some sources say R-4.3, so check the current spec sheet. |
| Hemp batts Hempitecture HempWool | Hemp fiber blended with recycled textiles. About R-3.7 per inch, close to fiberglass. Made in Idaho. | Walls, if you want a plant-fiber batt | Minimum orders, freight and code approval can add cost and delay. Pricing is dated and installers are rare. Rite Way flagged availability as the main obstacle. |
| Cellulose, loose fill Recycled paper with borate | Ground-up recycled paper treated with borate for fire and pest resistance. About R-3.2 per inch, blown in over the attic floor. | Unfinished attic floors | Settles about 20% over time, so it is installed deeper than the target. Heavy, and it absorbs water if the roof leaks. It does not suit walls unless dense-packed by a specialist. |
Mineral wool and fiberglass are not listed because they are not natural. Fiberglass appears below only as a price baseline.
| Material | R-value per inch | Material cost per sq ft | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fiberglass (baseline) | ~R-3.1 | ~$0.50–$0.90 installed, walls | Everywhere |
| Recycled denim batt | ~R-3.5 (R-13 in 3.5") | ~$0.58 (R-13) to ~$1.23 (R-19) retail | Good; some sizes out of stock |
| Sheep's wool | ~R-3.6 batts, ~R-4.3 loose fill | ~$1.60–$1.70 | Special order |
| Hemp batt | ~R-3.7 | ~$1.45–$2.50 | Limited; one US maker |
| Cellulose, loose fill | ~R-3.2 | ~$1.50–$2.00 installed, attic to R-38 | Good |
These figures come from retailer listings and articles of different ages, so treat them as ballpark. Labor for batt installation is assumed at about $0.60–$1.00 per sq ft.
Quantities are assumptions until Rite Way's takeoff: attic floor about 4,300 sq ft for the residence (the ceiling area from the plaster takeoff) and about 2,300 sq ft for the casita (its slab area); exterior walls about 2,600–3,200 sq ft for the residence and 1,800–2,300 sq ft for the casita, after doors and windows. Attics are unfinished and hold the HVAC, so the floor is insulated, not the roof.
| Option | Residence | Casita |
|---|---|---|
| Exterior walls | ||
| Fiberglass baseline (R-13 to R-15) | ~$1,300–$2,600 | ~$900–$1,800 |
| Recycled denim batts (~$1.20–$1.85 installed) | ~$3,100–$5,900 | ~$2,200–$4,300 |
| Hemp batts (~$2.05–$3.50 installed) | ~$5,300–$11,200 | ~$3,700–$8,050 |
| Sheep's wool batts (~$2.00–$3.50 installed) | ~$5,200–$11,200 | ~$3,600–$8,050 |
| Attic floor to about R-38 | ||
| Cellulose loose fill (~$1.50–$2.00 installed) | ~$6,450–$8,600 | ~$3,450–$4,600 |
| Recycled denim batts, two layers (~$3.00–$3.75) | ~$12,900–$16,100 | ~$6,900–$8,600 |
| Sheep's wool batts (rough scaling, ~$5–$8) | ~$21,500–$34,400 | ~$11,500–$18,400 |
The sheep's wool attic line is the weakest number. No reliable price was found for thick wool batts or wool loose fill, so it is scaled from wall pricing. Ask Rite Way and a wool supplier for real quotes before treating it as a budget.
| Combination | Residence | Casita |
|---|---|---|
| Denim walls + cellulose attic (lowest natural cost) | ~$9,550–$14,500 | ~$5,650–$8,900 |
| Denim walls + denim attic batts | ~$16,000–$22,000 | ~$9,100–$12,900 |
| Wool walls + wool attic | ~$26,700–$45,600 | ~$15,100–$26,450 |
Adding the two buildings, the lowest natural option comes to about $15,000–$23,000, and the all-wool option to about $42,000–$72,000.
With natural stone everywhere except the bedrooms, the residence has roughly 3,200–3,400 sq ft of stone and 800–1,000 sq ft of wood. The casita has roughly 700 sq ft of stone and 380–450 sq ft of wood. Installed, that comes to about $70,000–$134,000 for both buildings with budget stones such as travertine or slate, and up to about $259,000 with premium marble or limestone.
Because both buildings sit on slabs, two choices need to be made before the slabs are poured: how far the slab surface should drop where stone goes versus wood, and whether to put radiant heat in the slab. These are planning numbers, not bids.
Ceramic tile in place of stone would cut the total to roughly $39,000–$89,000 for both buildings (see the ceramic section below).
| Building | Heated area | Wood (bedrooms) | Stone (everything else heated) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Residence | 4,219 sq ft | ~800–1,000 sq ft | ~3,200–3,400 sq ft |
| Casita | 1,130 sq ft | ~380–450 sq ft | ~680–750 sq ft |
Heated areas come from the square-footage tables on plan sheet A3 of each set. Bedroom sizes are read from the floor plans: the master bedroom is roughly 19 by 18.5 ft, Bedroom #2 is about 16 by 17 ft and Bedroom #3 about 16 by 14 ft. In the casita, Bedroom #1 is about 15 by 13.5 ft and the Bunk Room about 15 by 12 ft. Closets inside the bedrooms are counted as wood. The garage (790 sq ft) and the covered porches are not included.
| Material | What it is | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Travertine | Soft banded limestone with a Mediterranean look. Sold honed and filled, or tumbled with an aged edge. | Main living areas, kitchen, halls; the most budget-friendly classic villa stone | Softer than marble and granite. Etches from acids and shows wear in high-traffic spots, and needs sealing. |
| Limestone | Fine-grained stone in creams and grays, including imported French and Portuguese types. | Living areas, foyer, kitchen | Stains from oils and acids; needs sealing. Price swings widely by origin. |
| Marble | Classic polished or honed stone with veining. | Baths, accent areas | Etches and stains easily; polished finishes are slippery when wet. Use honed. |
| Slate and flagstone | Hard natural cleft stone in earth tones. | Entries, mud room, laundry, studio | Uneven surface and rough texture; grout lines show more. |
| Ceramic tile | Glazed clay tile fired in a factory. Comes in endless sizes and stone-look and plank patterns. | Kitchen, baths, laundry, mud room, halls; the budget-friendly alternative to stone | Looks more uniform than natural stone. Softer than porcelain, so choose a floor-rated tile with a suitable PEI wear rating. |
| Porcelain tile | Denser, harder fired tile that absorbs almost no water. Often made in large formats. | High-traffic floors and any room with water | Harder and heavier to cut and set, so installation costs more than ceramic. Large tiles need a very flat slab. |
| Terracotta, cotto and Saltillo | Handmade-look clay tile, unglazed. Warm orange, red or buff tones with an old-world feel. | Entries, kitchen, living areas for a rustic Mediterranean look | Porous: needs sealing, and sealed Saltillo can be slippery. Colors vary and fade in strong sun. Installed price swings widely. |
| Engineered wood (white oak) | Real wood veneer over a plywood core. Comes in wide planks. | Bedrooms on a slab: the standard, most stable choice | Needs a moisture-tested slab and the adhesive or underlayment the maker approves. |
| Solid wood | Solid planks, including reclaimed heart pine. | Bedrooms only if the installer will warrant it | Experienced installers advise against gluing solid wood to a slab. Many manufacturers do not allow it, and moisture can make it cup or crack. |
Natural stone has no emissions of its own. For a healthy house, choose a low-odor penetrating sealer, and ask the installer for low-VOC thinset and non-epoxy grout.
| Tier | Examples | Installed cost per sq ft |
|---|---|---|
| Stone, budget | Travertine, slate, flagstone | ~$15–$25 |
| Stone, mid | Premium travertine, limestone | ~$20–$35 |
| Stone, premium | Marble, imported limestone, large-format or reclaimed stone | ~$35–$55 |
| Ceramic tile | Floor-rated glazed ceramic | ~$7–$14 |
| Porcelain tile | Standard or large-format porcelain | ~$12–$19 |
| Terracotta, cotto or Saltillo | Handmade-look clay tile, sealed | ~$9–$25 |
| Wood, engineered | Engineered white oak, wide plank, including moisture protection | ~$10–$21 |
Published installed prices for stone are very wide: travertine lists at about $17–$35 per sq ft installed, and limestone at about $6–$28 depending on the source. The tiers above reflect the more detailed sources and extra setting labor for a stone-heavy house. Engineered white oak runs about $8–$13 per sq ft installed, wide plank about $12–$18, plus an assumed $1–$3 for moisture protection on a slab.
| Combination (stone + wood) | Residence | Casita | Both |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget stone + engineered wood | ~$56,000–$106,000 | ~$14,000–$28,200 | ~$70,000–$134,000 |
| Mid stone + engineered wood | ~$72,000–$140,000 | ~$17,400–$35,700 | ~$89,000–$176,000 |
| Premium stone + engineered wood | ~$120,000–$208,000 | ~$27,600–$50,700 | ~$148,000–$259,000 |
Of each total, the wood is only about $8,000–$21,000 for the residence and $3,800–$9,450 for the casita. The stone choice decides the budget.
Not included: stone on the covered porches (about 1,316 sq ft on the residence and 1,007 sq ft on the casita, which would add roughly $19,700–$46,100 and $15,100–$35,200 at $15–$35 per sq ft). The plans note that porches and terraces are dropped for pavers, so treat those as a separate line.
| Combination (tile + engineered wood bedrooms) | Residence | Casita | Both |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ceramic tile + engineered wood (~$7–$14 tile) | ~$30,400–$68,600 | ~$8,560–$19,950 | ~$39,000–$89,000 |
| Porcelain tile + engineered wood (~$12–$19 tile) | ~$46,400–$85,600 | ~$11,960–$23,700 | ~$58,000–$109,000 |
| Ceramic tile everywhere, including bedrooms | ~$29,500–$59,100 | ~$7,900–$15,800 | ~$37,400–$74,900 |
For comparison, budget natural stone with engineered wood bedrooms is about $70,000–$134,000 for both buildings, so ceramic saves roughly $31,000–$45,000. Terracotta or Saltillo is priced between ceramic and premium stone because of its wide cost range, so get a quote if that look interests you.
Both buildings will run on a private well, so the right treatment depends on what the water test shows. A whole-house system for a well usually costs about $2,500–$5,000 for a basic sediment, carbon and UV setup, and about $5,000–$10,000 for a full train that also removes iron and manganese and corrects acidic water. A reverse osmosis tap for drinking water adds $300–$1,000.
Georgia well water commonly has iron, manganese and low pH, and sometimes radon or bacteria, so do not buy equipment until the new well has been tested. These are planning numbers, not bids.
| Test | Why | Approx. cost |
|---|---|---|
| Bacteria and nitrate | Safety check; repeat every year | ~$40–$150 |
| Expanded household panel (UGA W2 type) | Hardness, pH, alkalinity, iron, manganese, nitrate, fluoride and other minerals | ~$100–$400 at a certified lab |
| Metals including arsenic | Naturally occurs in parts of Georgia | ~$100–$200 |
| Radon in water | Occurs naturally in parts of Georgia; test if your region or home air radon is high | ~$100–$150 |
University of Georgia Extension reports that iron and manganese are the most common problems in Georgia private wells, and that low pH is common. Low pH can corrode plumbing and raise copper and lead. Iron and manganese usually are not a health hazard but stain fixtures and taste bad. UGA recommends testing bacteria annually and the broader panel every few years. The county Extension office has sample bottles and helps read results.
| Treatment | What it does | When you need it | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sediment pre-filter | Catches sand, silt and rust before the rest of the system. | Almost always, first in line | Replace cartridges every few months to a year; a clogged filter drops pressure. |
| Iron and manganese filter Air-injection oxidizing or greensand | Oxidizes dissolved iron, manganese and sulfur so they can be filtered out and flushed in a backwash. | Staining, metallic taste, rotten-egg smell | Must be sized to the well pump flow (about 10 gpm here). Backwash water has to go somewhere; confirm with the septic installer. |
| Acid neutralizer Calcite filter | Raises low pH so water does not corrode plumbing. | pH below about 6.5 | Adds some hardness; needs periodic media top-ups. |
| Whole-house carbon filter | Reduces chlorine, many chemicals and taste or odor. | Taste, smell or chemical concerns; less needed on a clean well | Does not remove iron, bacteria or hardness. Carbon needs replacing every several years. |
| Water softener Salt ion exchange | Removes hardness (calcium and magnesium) that scales fixtures and appliances. | Hard water | Adds sodium and uses salt. Regeneration brine goes to the septic system, so ask the septic installer. |
| Salt-free conditioner | Reduces scale buildup without salt or brine. | Mild hardness, if you want no salt | Does not remove hardness minerals or iron; works on scale only. |
| UV disinfection | Kills bacteria and viruses with no chemicals. | Any bacteria in the test | Needs clear water, so install after sediment and iron filters; the lamp is replaced yearly and it needs power. |
| Radon removal | Aeration or carbon takes radon out of the water. | If the water test shows it | Aeration systems cost more and need venting. |
| Reverse osmosis at the kitchen tap | Polishes drinking and cooking water to remove most dissolved contaminants. | Any home that wants the cleanest drinking water | Wastes some water and removes minerals; put it at the tap, not on the whole house. |
Whole-house reverse osmosis exists but costs about $4,800–$8,000 and wastes water, so it is not the usual choice for a well.
| Component | Installed cost | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Sediment pre-filter | ~$150–$600 | Vendor pricing |
| Whole-house carbon filter | ~$1,500–$2,000 equipment | Vendor pricing |
| Water softener (well water) | ~$800–$2,000 | Cost guide |
| UV disinfection | ~$700–$1,750 | Vendor price breakdown |
| Iron and manganese filter | ~$1,500–$3,500 | My estimate; no reliable price found |
| Acid neutralizer | ~$800–$2,000 | My estimate; no reliable price found |
| Reverse osmosis at one kitchen tap | ~$300–$1,000 | Guide ranges from ~$50 to ~$1,500 |
| Installation labor | ~$300–$2,000, often ~$1,100 | Cost guides |
Multi-stage well treatment trains list at about $4,000–$4,500 for equipment and can reach $5,000–$10,000 installed with plumbing work. Whole-house costs overall range from about $850 to $6,000 for ordinary city-water systems, and well systems run at the high end.
| Scenario | What it includes | Estimated installed cost |
|---|---|---|
| Basic | Sediment, carbon and UV, if the well is mostly clean | ~$2,500–$5,000 |
| Typical well train | Sediment, iron and manganese filter, acid neutralizer, softener or salt-free conditioner, UV | ~$5,000–$10,000 |
| Add-ons | Reverse osmosis at the kitchen tap in each building | ~$300–$1,000 each |
| Separate system for the casita | Only if the casita is on its own water line and cannot share the main system | ~$1,500–$3,500 more |
One system placed where the water enters, before the line splits, can serve both buildings. The well quote from Greene's includes a pressure tank and a submersible pump that delivers about 10 gpm, which sets the size the treatment must handle. The trench and line from the well to the house is not in that quote.
Yearly upkeep (my estimate): about $200–$600 for sediment and carbon cartridges, $100–$300 for salt if you choose a softener, and $100–$200 for a UV lamp.
For a healthy, breathable finish over veneer plaster, silicate mineral paint and clay paint are the strongest options. Zero-VOC acrylic is the budget choice, and limewash is the most artisanal and the most expensive.
For the residence’s roughly 12,000 sq ft of interior walls, painted walls should cost about $13,000–$29,000 installed, depending on the paint. Limewash could run $28,000–$50,000.
| Type | What it is | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silicate mineral Keim (Optil, Ecosil-ME), Romabio | Potassium-silicate binder that bonds into the plaster instead of forming a plastic film. VOC-free, no added preservatives, non-flammable, mold resistant; Keim Ecosil-ME is Cradle to Cradle Silver with Material Health Gold. Flat mineral finish, scrubbable. | Whole-house walls over plaster; the natural partner for veneer | Fewer US dealers and painters who know it. On gypsum plaster, use a sol-silicate product like Optil and follow Keim’s priming rules. |
| Clay paint BioShield, Earthborn, Organic & Natural Paint Co. | Clay is the main mineral filler. Very low odor; static resistant, so it reduces dust and allergen build-up. Soft, ultra-matte, chalky look. | Bedrooms, living spaces, study, music room | Not suited to frequent cleaning: a poor choice for kitchen, baths, mud room and laundry. |
| Lime paint / limewash Romabio Classico, Pure & Original, Kreidezeit | Slaked lime with mineral pigments; breathable and absorbs CO2. Mottled, old-world look that suits a Mediterranean villa. | Feature walls (Social room, foyer) | Most labor-intensive (brushed, 2+ coats). Soft and not scrubbable; over gypsum veneer it needs a compatible primer. |
| Zero-VOC acrylic ECOS, AFM Safecoat, Benjamin Moore and Sherwin-Williams zero-VOC lines | Conventional latex chemistry with very low emissions. Every painter knows it; scrubbable; all sheens. | Budget option and high-wear areas | Still a plastic film, so less breathable. “Zero-VOC” usually means the base before tinting: ask for zero-VOC colorants and look for GREENGUARD Gold. |
| Integral-color plaster Veneer plaster tinted at mixing | No paint at all: the color is in the plaster. Healthiest option with nothing to repaint. | Anywhere you want a no-paint finish | Color is harder to keep uniform and touch-ups are tricky. |
| Paint type | Price per gallon | Coverage | Durability / cleaning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zero-VOC acrylic | ~$50–$90 (ECOS from $89) | ~350–400 sq ft/gal per coat | Scrubbable |
| Clay paint | ~$60 plus shipping (BioShield) | ~400 sq ft/gal per coat | Light cleaning only |
| Silicate mineral | ~$100–$150 (Romabio mineral paint $120–$145) | ~165 sq ft/gal for two coats (Keim Optil) | Very durable, scrubbable |
| Lime paint | ~$90–$110 (Romabio Classico) | ~260 sq ft/gal per coat | Soft; refresh rather than scrub |
No published US price for Keim was found, so the silicate range is approximate. Get a quote from a US Keim distributor.
Based on the 12,000 sq ft net wall area from the veneer plaster takeoff; walls only, not ceilings or trim. Labor is an estimate per square foot of wall surface.
| Option | Coats | Paint needed | Material | Labor | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zero-VOC acrylic | Primer + 2 | ~40 gal primer + ~70 gal paint | $5,000–$9,000 | $9,000–$15,000 | $14,000–$24,000 |
| Clay paint | 2 | ~60 gal | $3,600–$5,400 + shipping | $9,000–$15,000 | $13,000–$21,000 |
| Silicate mineral | 2 (no acrylic primer) | ~75 gal | $7,500–$11,000 | $12,000–$18,000 | $19,000–$29,000 |
| Lime paint | 2–3 | ~115 gal | $10,000–$14,000 | $18,000–$36,000 | $28,000–$50,000 |
Labor rates assumed: $0.75–$1.25/sq ft for acrylic and clay, $1.00–$1.50 for silicate, $1.50–$3.00 for brushed lime. Cross-check: guides put interior painting at $2–$6 per square foot of floor area, which for 4,219 sq ft heated is about $8,400–$25,000.
Skipping the acrylic primer under mineral paint keeps the whole wall breathable, which fits the natural insulation already chosen.